Plaiting apparatus.



Patented Dec. 25, |900.

(Application led July 3, 1900.|

6 Sheets-Sheet l,

(N0 Model.)

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A ttomeyS Patented Dec. 25, |900.

T. w. CASTLEMAN.

PLAITING APPARATUS.

'Application filed July 3, 1900,

6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

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Patented Dec.Y 25, |900.

k'l'. W. CASTLEM'AN.

PLAITING APPARATUS.

(Applicatio med .my a, 1900.1 (No Model.) B Sheets-Sheet 3.

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Patented Doc. 25, |900.

T. W. GASTLEMAN,

Patented Dec. 25, |900. T. W. CASTLEMAN. PLAITING APPARATUS.

(Application led July 3, 1900. (No Model.) 6 Sheets-8h88( 5.

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Patented Dec. 25, |900. T. W. CASTLEMAN.

PLAITIN'G APPARATUS.

(Application led July 3, 1900.|

6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

(Nn Model.)

NN. MIH

/NVE/VTOR W/TNE UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS W. CASTLEMAN, OF NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA.

PLAITING APPARATUS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 664,722, dated December25, 1900.

- Application lea July s, 1900'. serial No. 22,423. lli@ model.)

T0 all whom it may concern,.-

Be it known that I, THOMAS W. CASTLE- MAN, a citizen of the UnitedStates, and a resident of New Orleans, inthe parish of Orleans and Stateof Louisiana, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inPlaiters, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements on my plaiter shown, described, andclaimed in my application for Letters Patent of the United States, tiledJanuary 22, 1900, Serial No. 2,399.

The object of my present improvement is to greatly simplify my plaiterboth in its coustruction and work and also to facilitate the productionof accordion, tapered, box, knife, mixed, and other plaiting.

This invention, as in my former invention above referred to, does notdepend on frames and guides, and instead of two separate matrices, as inmy former invention, I provide one matrix made in double form, so thatthe upper matrix member may be lifted and opened from the lower mat-rixmelnber as a hinged cover to the latter, either as a whole or insectionsfronl side to side or from a central line between the sidestoward the latter, the llpper lnatrix member being preferably dividedinto sections, so that the work may be examined at any desired spot orplace without lifting the whole upper matrix member. By making thematrix in double form instead, as in previous constructions, of twoseparate members a new and valuable result is obtained in that the foldsof the intermeshing members are kept in strict alinement and there is noliability of the intermeshing folds getting out of alinement in rapidwork. I utilize the holes for the locking-rods of my previousconstruction for the purpose of running strong gathering and sustainingcords therethrough.

Myinvention cousists,tirst, in aplaiter having a double matrix in whichits lower and upper matrix members are formed integral at one side.

My invention consists, secondly, in a plaiter having the upper matrixmember divided into sections extending entirely or partly across thelower matrix member.

My invention consists, thirdly, in combining with the double matrix of aplaiter having its upper and lower matrix members provided with holes inthe ends of the folds thereof, cords running through the holes forgathering the folds of the said matrix members together and holding thesame in a solid mass.

In order that my invention may be fully understood, I will proceed todescribe it with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which-Figure I is a perspective view of my improved accordion-plaiter having asectional upper matrix member, one of the sections being open. Fig. IIis a detail vertical longitudinal section on a much larger scale on theline II II, Fig. I. Fig. III is a top view of the accordion-plaiter.Fig. IV is an elevationof the innerside of the same. Fig. Vis a top viewof the accordion-plaiter, showing a modification in the section'ing ofthe upper matrix member. Fig. Va is a detail plan view thereof open.Fig. VI is a detail top view of one end of a taper plaiter. Fig.VII isan end view thereof. Fig. VIIIis a detail top view of the other end ofthe same when spread out. Fig. VIIIa is a detail view of the out-er sideof the latter. Fig. IX is a top view of abox-plaiter. Fig. X is auelevation of the outer side thereof. Fig. XI is the top view of aknife-plaiter. Fig. XII is an elevation of the outer Side thereof. Fig.XIII is an enlarged detail longitudinal section of the box-plaiter onthe line XIII XIII, Fig. IX. Fig. XIV is an enlarged detail longitudinalsection of the knife-plaiter on the line XIV XIV, Fig. XI. Fig. XV is adetail perspective view of accordion-plaiting. Fig. XV is a detailperspective view of taper plaiting. Fig. XVI is a detail perspective ofbox-plaiting. Fig. XVIa is a detail perspective View of taperbox-plaiting. Fig. XVII is a detail perspective view of knife-plaiting.Fig. XVIIa is a perspective viewof taper knifeplaiting. Fig. XVIII is adetail top View of a mixed plaiter for straight work, partly brokenaway. Fig. XVIIIa is a similar view of a mixed plaiter for taper work.Fig. XIX is a detail side View of two-ply fabric which may be employedfor each matrix member.

Referring t0 Figs. I, II, III, and IV, the plaiter is constructed foraccordion-plaitiug, and comprises a double matrix having a lower matrixmember 1 and an upper matrix member 2, formed in one piece andconstructed IOO with corresponding intermeshing folds. The fabric of thedouble matrix in this instance is a single piece of material havingalternating transverse single webs 3 and double webs 4, and alongitudinal single web 5 between the inner ends of the transverse webs,the cloth or piece of material being folded at 6 in line with thelongitudinal single web. so that the upper matrix member provides anintermeshing fold cover to the lower matrix member. 7 indicates thelower stiffening-strip pockets within the lower double webs 4and 8 theupper stiffening-strip pockets within the upper double webs 4. The goods9 to be worked upon are placed on the lower matrix member, as usual.Series of holes 10 are formed in the ends of the folds of thelongitudinal web at the inner side of the double matrix for a gatheringand sustaining cord 11, while series of holes 12 are formed Ain the endsof the folds at the outer side of the lower matrix mem ber,through whichanother gathering and snstainingcord 11 is run. 13 indicates additionalgathering cords or tapes which run through clips 13a, secured to thefolds. The upper matrix member has its outer edge 14 located within theinner side of the series of outer holes 12, so that the seating orintermeshing of the folds of the upper matrixmember upon the folds ofthe lower matrix member is not interfered with. The upper matrix membermay be formed in sections 14, extending from one side, as shown in Fig.I, so that different parts of the work may be examined at will. 15 is aninner clamping-bar through which the inner ends of the gathering-cords11 are passed and to which they are secured `in a suitable manner byknots, for instance, or otherwise. 16 is an outer clamping-bar havingholes through which the free ends of the gathering and sustaining cordsare passed, a groove 17 for receiving the outer part of the innergatheringcord and an eye or staple 18 adjacent to the outer hole of theouter clamping-bar for leading the outer part of the inner cord toposition against the outer gathering and sustaining cord where thegathering and sustaining cords are led off parallel with each other. Theclamping-bars are provided with handles 19, around which the cords maybe coiled or otherwise fastened..

Referring to Figs. V and Va, I show a modification in the sectioning ofthe upper matrix member 2 of the matrix, in which the sections 14 at oneend of the matrix are integral with the lower matrix member first on oneside and then on the other, the sections 14a extending entirely acrossthe workin each case. At the other end of the matrix the sections 14b ofthe upper matrix member are integral with the lower matrix member at thesides, the sections 14b of the upper matrix member meetingL at thecenter. Thus three forms of sectioning, 14, 14a, and 14b are shown, anyone of which may be used or adopted, according to the nature of thework, one form being better in some cases and another form being betterthe goods as a rule are' held more securely A in place than where theupper matrix member opens entirely from one side or from the Center.

Referring to Figs. VI, VII, VIII, and VIII, I show my plaiter for taperwork, which is narrow at one side and wide at the other side. Thisplaiter has wedge-shaped clamping-bars 15EL 16a and segmental matrixmembers la and 2*. Y

Referring to Figs. IX, X, and XIII, Ishow my plaiter adapted forboxwork, in which the lower and upper matrix members 1b 2b have wide andnarrow folds which are folded together alternately in oppositedirections, so as to produce horizontal overlapping wide and narrowfolds for forming box-plaits. 13b is a gathering or sustaining cord forthe upper matrix member.

Referring to Figs. XI, XII, and XIV, I show my plaiter adapted forknifework, in which the lower and upper matrix members 1C 2 havecorresponding interrneshing wide and narrow folds. The gathering andsustaining cords extend through holes in the ends of the wide folds fromthe clampingbars 15. By withdrawing the cords from the knife-plaiter andarranging them as in theV plaiter or knife-plaiter are provided with avsimilar arrangementof wide and narrow folds. Referring to Figs. XVIIIand XVIII, I show a simple form Yof mixed plaiter for straight ortapered work of dierent kinds, according to' the position in which onematrix mem beris fixed with relation to the other, whereby plaits ofdifferent kinds may be formed on goods-arranged as desired within theplaiter. In this instance the clampingbars and gathering and sustainingcords may be dispensed with, while series of holes 12?.a are provided toenable the seamstress or user to stitch or pin the lower and uppermatrix members together in desired relation to one another for straightor inclined work. Each of the matrix members may be formed of two'- plyfabric, as shown in Fig. XIX, instead of alternating single andl doublewebs. v Y

When it is desired to plait a piece of goods, the matrix members arefirst opened and smoothed out fiat upon a table, board, or

IOO

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other convenient surface, the upper matrix essai-y. This beingaccomplished the gathering and sustaining cords are slowly pulledthrough the movable clamping-bars, so as to gradually draw the matrixmembers into a firm and solid pack or mass of folds. As thismanipulation of the plaiter goes on each particular fold is drawn andpressed into place by the fingers, and the upper matrix member isconstantly pressed down by the hand or in any convenient manner, so thatit isl kept down between the folds of the lower matrix member. In thisway the material is quickly and beautifully plaited, according to theshape and arrangement of the matrix members. In some instances it willbe found desirable to baste or pin the matrix members and the materialtogether, according to the form of plait desired. This also facilitatesthe rapid gathering and sustaining of the whole and keeps all the partstogether. After the matrix members are gathered and sustained iirmlytogether the gathering and sustaining cords are wrapped around the han-vdles of the clamping-bars, and then the entire plaiter,with the goods,may be keptironed, steamed, or otherwise treated, as the operatordesires.

The great advantage of making the matrix integral or of one piece ofvcloth ormaterial lies in the fact that this arrangement enables the workof plaiting to be commenced more easily than where separate matrixmembers are employed, for the reason thatasingle piece can be handledand pressed into desired form with much greater facility than the twoseparate matrix members heretofore employed. The present construction inhaving one matrix member separated at one side from the other matrixmember has another great advantage, in that the operator may plait onlyone part of a given piece of goodsthat is, if the goods are forty inchesWide the operator may plait to the extent of ten inches or twelve inchesor any desired width, leaving the balance unplaited and susceptible ofsuch cu'tting, trimming, or other manipulation as may be desired by thedressmaker. This cannot be done where use is made of the form shown inmy previous application, hereinbefore referred to, unless the means forholding the matrices together does not extend through the folds of oneof the matrices on one side. In the present construction the alternatesingle and double webs of the matrix members coincide, so that thepockets of each matrix member are located on the same side of each fold.

Instead of combined single and two ply fabric I may employ two-plyfabric for the matrix members, as shown in Fig. XIX.

Having thus described my invention, th following is what I claim as newtherein and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

l. A plaiter comprising a matrix having its lower and upper matrixmembers formed integral so as to keep the intermeshing folds of thematrix members in correctalinement.

2. A plaiter comprising a matrix having its lower and upper matrixmembers formed integral at their inner side so as to keep theintermeshing folds of the matrix members in correct alinement.

3. A plaiter comprising a matrix formed with alternating single anddouble transverse webs and a single longitudinal connectingweb.

4. A plaiter co'mprising a matrix formed with alternating single anddouble transverse webs, and pockets in the double webs, andstiffening-strips located in the pockets.

` 5. A plaiter comprising a matrix constructed with lower and uppermatrix members each formed with alternating and coinciding single anddouble webs providing pockets, so

as to bring the pockets of each matrix member on the same side of thefolds.

6. A plaiter comprising a matrix having lower and upper intermeshingmatrix members form ed with cord-holes in the folds thereof,clamping-bars formed with cord-holes, and the gathering and sustainingcords extending through the cord-holes of the folds and clamping-bars.

7. A plaiter comprising a matrix having a lower matrix member, an uppermatrix member, formed integral with the lower matrix member at 011e sidethereof so as to provide a cover havingl its outer side located in rearof the outer edge of the lower matrix member.

S. A plaiter comprising a matrix having a lower matrix member, and anupper matrix member formed in sections integral With the lower matrixmember.

9. A plaiter comprising a matrix having a lower matrix member formedwith mixed forms of folds and an upper matrix member having mixed formsof folds intermeshing therewith.

THOMAS W. CASTLEMAN.

IOC

